Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Fully Lined Ruffle Apron Tutorial

Consider this tutorial my early Christmas present to you

Aprons make fabulous Christmas gifts and I wanted you to have plenty of time to sew them before December. Aren't I nice? I'll even go one step further by adding this disclaimer:

I do not mind if you use this pattern for personal use, or even to sew and sell the aprons. However, please do not sell the actual pattern for profit... it is for everyone to enjoy free of charge.

Materials:
1 1/4 yard patterned quilting cotton
1 yard solid cotton (or fun coordinating fabric)
3/4 yard muslin

Seam Allowance: 1/2 inch
*Note: This pattern is very versatile so feel free to adjust the measurements as you see fit (shorter apron bottom, longer/shorter ties, etc).


Before I begin with the steps, I want to share one big tip for "cutting" this pattern. SNIP & RIP your fabric pieces (I see you quilters cringing!). Almost all of the pieces are rectangle. It's fast. It's easy. And it keeps your pieces on the grain of the fabric and nice and symmetrical. Don't boohoo over the loose strings and damaged raw edges of your pieces... it's nothing that a 1/2 inch seam allowance won't hide. Well worth it! Here's the quick "how to" on snipping and ripping your cotton fabric:

You're going to want to start with a nice edge that's on the grain, so snip and rip the cut ends of your fabric. Snip about an inch in then pull apart using a steady ripping motion.

video

When ripping your actual pieces, you'll need to make sure the ripped corners of your rectangle pieces meet up without doing too much ripping into the rest of your fabric. Do this by measuring and sniping the width and length of your fabric piece. Then do a gradual ripping from each side until they meet at the corner (shown below).


Step One: Snip and rip (or cut if you tediously wish) your pieces

- ruffled hem: 4"x44" rectangle (solid cotton)
- apron bottom: 25"x17" rectangle (patterned cotton)
- apron lining: 25"x17" rectangle (muslin)
- waistband front: 24"x4 1/2" rectangle (solid cotton)
- waistband back: 24"x4 1/2" rectangle (muslin)
- apron ties: two 38"x4 1/2" rectangles (patterned cotton)
- neck strap: 22"x4 1/2" (patterned cotton)
- top trim of the bib: 18"x5" rectangle (solid cotton)
- bottom of the bib: 18"x6" rectangle (patterned cotton)
- muslin bib back: sized to front bib piece after it is sewn and cut
- pocket (optional): You can do any pocket you like (plain, pleated, or gathered)... I usually just cut out a random pocket on the fold.

Step Two: Prep the bib pieces

Ok, I said almost all your pieces are rectangle... the bib is the exception because although you rip it as a rectangle, you'll need to trim it to a trapezoid.

So, sew the solid and patterned front bib pieces together along the long edges. Press and top stitch along the solid side.


Now you're going to cut/angle the bib so it's smaller up top (trapezoid). To do this fold this piece in half and measure 3 inches in along the solid side. From this point, your going to cut diagonally to the corner of the bottom patterned piece, so when you open it up, you have a symmetrical bib that is 12 inches on top and 18 inches on bottom.


Use this piece as a guide to cut your muslin backing:


Now you have all your apron pieces prepped. Here's what all your pieces should look like:


Step Three: Make the bottom ruffle

I like to start with the bottom half of the apron. To make the ruffle, fold your 4"x44" ruffle piece longways right sides together and stitch both short ends. Turn, crisp corners and press in half. Use a baste stitch to gather along raw opening. Adjust the gather to 24".



Step Four: Make the apron bottom

Sandwich the muslin and pattern rectangles ride sides together, with the ruffle in the middle facing in so the raw edges of all three pieces are lined up along the bottom (pin layers well). You'll want the ruffle ends 1/2 inch inside the 25" width of the apron bottom on both sides. Sew along the bottom of the apron.

*Note: You may want to break this step down by first pinning and sewing the ruffle to the apron front only, THEN going back and sewing the muslin lining on top of that:

Or if you're comfortable with sewing through that many sandwiched layers all at once, it'll look this this:


*Optional: At this point, you may want to sew on the pocket on the patterned side.

Next, tuck or pin away the corners of the ruffle, then sew down the two 17" sides of the apron. Turn right side out and press. Top stitch if desired.

Tuck away that ruffle corner. Notice the 1/2 inch allotted for your side seam allowance :

Sew around bottom and sides:

Turned right side out:

Top stitch along bottom:

Use a baste stitch to gather the top opening as desired (or you can add a couple of fun pleats instead).


Now that your apron bottom is finished, you can work on the apron top (bib and neck strap).

Step Five: Sew the neck strap

For the neck strap, fold in half longways right sides together and sew along two edges. Turn right side out, press and top stitch strap. Set aside.


Step Six: Sew the bib.

Pin the neck strap on one side of the bib top as shown (keep it 1/2 inch away from side to account for your seam allowance). I angle it in so it is consistent with the trapezoid angle when turned right side out.


Sandwich the bib pieces right sides together (with the neck strap pinned in between). Sew around three sides, leaving bottom of bib open.

Turn right side out, crisp corners and press. Top stitch along the three sides.


Now that the bib and bottom are finished, next you're going to bring it all together at the waistband.

Step Seven: Sew the Waist Ties

For the ties, fold, press and top stitch three edges of the tie rectangles (tiny... about 1/4 inch double fold).


Step Eight: Attach waistband to apron bottom

Center the waistband on the top gathered side of the apron bottom (you'll have about 2 to 4 inches of extended waistband on each side of the apron bottom). Sandwich/pin the waistband muslin, apron bottom, and waistband solid (in that order) right sides together. Stitch waistband solid and muslin to apron bottom across the entire length of the waistband.



Step Nine: Attach the ties

Sandwich each tie inside the ends of the waistband solid and muslin pieces (so that the right sides of the ties and waistband solid are right sides together... the tie tails will be facing inside the apron while you do this). Sew both ends of the waistband to secure the ties on. Turn and press.


Step Ten: Attach the bib

Flip your apron to the muslin side. Center the bib with the waistband. Pin right sides together (muslin bib to muslin waistband) and stitch along bottom of bib (you'll only be stitching through the bib layers and muslin waistband... NOT the solid waistband piece).


Now turn apron to right side and press the top of the solid waistband in on itself, so the top edge of the waistband pieces match up (pin well, making sure that your pressed edge covers your stitching from the bottom half of the bib.) Top stitch along length of the top waistband through all layers.


Top stitched waistband:
Step Eleven: Finishing

For the neck strap fasteners, I use an industrial snap press, but you can do a button and buttonhole to attach it to the bib. I like to make the neck strap adjustable, so I space out three snaps.

I do love my snap press and justified buying it because I make cloth diapers for my babies and also use the press for my baby bibs and other projects. It's super fun :) Here's where I got mine if that's something you think you'll want to invest in someday:

I bought mine from here years ago and use the industrial size 20 dies and polyresin snaps, and my friend got hers from here and uses the standard size 20 dies and polyresin snaps.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Halloween 2009


I've been wanting to do a Sally costume (Nightmare Before Christmas) for a couple years now, and this year I finally did it! It was such a fun costume to make. I know it looks like a raggedy thrown together outfit, but in reality, there is a lot of systematic cutting and piecing involved.



Here is Denny's Darth Vader costume I sewed. We bought him a Darth mask for his birthday but he took it off to run around the Trunk-or-Treat party with his best bud Evan (on left).



And of course Ashlyn made the prettiest little princess. She loved getting to wear makeup and I loved putting it on her.


And here is me at 26 weeks. This is my "Oh, she's so cute and pregnant" stage. Next month I'll transition into the "HOLY COW! You're huge!" stage. (Yes, believe it or not I get that exact phrase at least once a day in the last THREE months of my pregnancy.)



I hope everyone had a fun Halloween! Ok, I'm off to help my kids eat their candy for breakfast now.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Pop Garden Peonies Apron Set


Here is an apron set that I donated for the silent auction at Denny's school carnival. Includes ruffle apron, potholder, microfiber kitchen towel set and recipe cards.


I'm posting this as a sneak preview for a tutorial I'm currently drafting for ya'll. I've had a lot of requests for instructions on making the ruffle apron, so while I was sewing this one, I took the needed tut pics. Stay tuned... it's set to launch next Tuesday!


♥♥♥
♥♥

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Birthdays

We recently celebrated the kids' birthdays (Ashlyn turned 3 and Denny turned 6). My parents drove out for each kid's big day and my dad took some fabulous pictures as usual.

Our local Pottery Barn Kids was having a Star Wars event on the weekend of Denny's birthday. Denny kinda likes Star Wars (kinda, as in a lot, a lot, a lot).


Denny's cake. I ate it for breakfast, lunch and dinner for 4 days straight until it was gone. Cake is one of my many weaknesses.


I think every single one of Denny's presents was something Star Wars related... why does he look so surprised?

Denny and Ashlyn sippin' the root beer.

Ashlyn opening presents in her lovely princess dress (which was a gift from Mrs. Kathi... this totally saved me from having to sew her a Halloween costume this year... YOU ROCK, MRS. KATHI!!!)

Ashlyn tells me about 20 times a day that her favorite color is pink. Does she really think I'll forget something so obvious?

Ashlyn loves her baby dolls.

And Denny and Ashlyn adore their Nana and PawPaw!

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Easy Knitting Needles Tutorial


Ok, I know knitting needles aren't terribly expensive in the first place, but here is an uber cheap way of making your own for under 50 cents a set. Last year, the 8-year old girls at church begged me to teach them how to knit. Supplying needles for ten girls was a difference between $50 for 10 sets of store-bought needles, or only $5 (plus one hour of my labor) to make them. Well worth it to make them in my opinion. Well, this Saturday our church is doing a knitting class for the women, so I decided to make some sets to encourage more people to give it a try (and of course they get to keep the knitting needles as a perk).

Materials:

  • ♥ 12" Wooden craft dowels of desired thickness (Hobby Lobby carries these for $1.99 for a pack. The 1/4 inch thickness comes in a pack of 12 dowels)
  • ♥ dowel caps for your chosen size of dowel or polymer clay to make your own caps
You'll also need the following for this project:
  • ♥ pencil sharpener
  • ♥ fine grain sandpaper
  • ♥ soft dry cloth
  • ♥ wax (I used a tea light)
  • ♥ wood glue
  • ♥ acrylic paint (optional)
For this tutorial I used 1/4 inch dowels, which is equivalent to needle size 10 US. I think this is great size for beginners to learn on.


Step One:

Using the pencil sharpener, sharpen one end of each dowel.


Step Two:

Sand the dowels. Start by dulling the sharpened point into a nice blunt tip. Sand the entire dowel from tip to end.



Step Three:

Using a clean, dry cloth, wipe down the dowels to remove the wood dust.

Nice blunt tips and smooth dowels.


Step Four:

Wax the needles generously from tip to end. I used a cheapo tea light for convenience purposes.



Step Five:
Use a clean, dry cloth to smooth and wipe away excess wax. Rub until the cloth glides smoothly. You don't want sticky needles. The purpose of the wax is to condition the wood so it is nice and smooth.


Step Six:

Paint the dowel caps if desired.

*Note: If you can't find dowel caps to fit your dowels, then use polymer clay to form little balls. Press the balls of clay onto the flat end of the dowel to mold the dowel end. Remove clay cap from dowel and bake in oven as directed to set clay.


I wrote the needle size on the end with a fine point permanent marker.


Step Seven:

Glue the caps to the ends of the needles. Use wood glue for the wooden caps or E6000 for the polymer clay caps (just use a small dab).


Let them dry and start knitting!

I took them for a test drive to knit these hats for my 3 year old and baby girl on the way.


Enjoy

Monday, October 5, 2009

Girly Baby Gifts


My awesome sister-in-law is having her first baby girl next month, which she's extremely excited about (she already has two of the cutest boys in the world). Anyhoo, here are some goods I'm sending her way:


Bambino Blocks (Set of 5)


The reverse side has shapes.


We did an etsy trade for this little newborn dress (I'm getting some of her fabulous vinyl decals).


I love baby gowns with the little fold-over mitts built in the sleeves, so I was sure to include those!

Friday, October 2, 2009

Sewing Vintage Slips

I have a friend who has the tall, slender body of a goddess (poor girl). Consequently, a lot of dresses that would fall knee length on most of us, are much shorter on her. She asked me to make some vintage slips for her to wear with her dresses so they'd add some length to them. The cute vintage style hems are meant to peek out at the bottom of her dress when she wears them, adding a fun and feminine touch.

I love how they turned out! Check out this shop to buy really cute slips that are sure to dress up your wardrobe!