Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Ruffle Bloomer Pants Pattern and Tutorial

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Ya'll are in for a real treat... sure there are lots of online tutorials for kids pants, but here you can print a fabulously FREE pattern for sizes 2T-5T. This is such a versatile pattern. Add ruffles or don't. Crop the legs to capri length or leave them nice and long. Use fun prints, or make them solid. You can even keep it simple, and use it for boys pants!

Here's a classy example of capri length, using black linen fabric and a little embellishing with the same linen:

For this tutorial, I decided to use some fun coordinating fabrics from the Wildwood Collection by Erin McMorris, which was graciously supplied by Imagine Fabrics.

Please note, I do not mind if you use this pattern for personal use, or even to sew and sell your own handmade toddler pants. However, please do not sell the actual pattern for profit... it is for everyone to enjoy free of charge.  

When printing the pdf pattern, make sure that the "page scaling" is set to "none". Measure the 1" scale box on your printout to ensure it measures exactly 1". Cut out and tape the three pattern pieces together per instruction.

2/3 yard fabric for main pants
1/4 yard fabric for ruffles
1" non-roll elastic (measured and cut according to toddler's waist) (approximately 19" for 2T, 20" for 3T, 21" for 4T, 22" for 5T)

Step 1: Cut your pattern pieces. For the main piece, you will fold selvage ends together, then fold a second time. Line up your pattern on the double fold. The pattern does not include the ruffle piece. For the ruffles, cut two rectangles, measuring 4" x 42". Here are your pieces:

Step 2: Gather your ruffles by setting your sewing machine to a long baste stitch. Some sewing machines will gather well by increasing your upper tension to the highest setting. If not, then use a regular basting stitch and manually adjust your gathers by pulling on the thread ends and cinching along the length.

Tip: Press ruffles with a hot iron, so the gathers lay flat. This will help when piecing ruffles to the pant leg.
Step 3: Sew your ruffles to the hem of pants. Open the leg pieces and pin gathers right-side together with pant hems.  If your ruffle is longer than the hem, that's okay, just cut excess ruffle, so it is the same width of pant leg. If the ruffle is too short, adjust ruffle to length of pant leg. Sew using a 3/8" seam allowance.

Step 4: Press ruffle seam up and top stitch along top.

Step 5: Sew the pant crotch. Open both pieces and lay right-sides together. Sew down each crotch side. Unless you are using a serger, I recommend double stitching the crotch seams to reinforce. 

Step 6: Sew the pant legs. Lay the pants so the un-sewn edges of the legs are on the inseam. Pin, being sure to line up the ruffles, and stitch to make leg casings. 

Step 7: Sew the waistband. Fold and press the waistband 1/4" down all around. Then fold another 1 1/4" and press again. Since the front and back are the same, choose one of the crotch seams and sew waistband casing all around, leaving a 2" opening.

Step 8:  Insert the pre-measured elastic by using a safety pin. Be sure that the elastic does not twist. Overlap elastic ends 1 inch and sew a square to secure ends together. Slip a fabric tag in the opening, then finish stitching the waistband casing closed.


Step 9:  Hem the pant legs. Finish the pants by sewing a 1/4" hem on the ruffle hem.

 Happy sewing!